General Question about Finding an NA [Archive] (2024)

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theredcapediver

29th January 2017, 12:04

First off, searched and read as many threads as I could, but apologies if this information already exists somewhere...

Long story short, I've been looking for a good, clean NA for almost 6 months now, and I'm starting to wonder if I'm either not trying hard enough or going about it the wrong way.

Admittedly, I'm looking for more of a cream puff car than most people have sitting around - 94-97, under 130K miles, decent paint, good motor, ac, etc. - and not priced ridiculously high.

My question is - how would you go about finding what seems to be a needle in a haystack? Resources other than Craigslist? Good markets to look in? Quick ways to identify a good deal? Tips for buying from far away cities?

Appreciate any info you guys have! This is getting frustrating, but I'm trying to maintain patience and stay the course.

mrus

29th January 2017, 12:40

The topics area's are full of general responses regarding your questions.

I think if you gave some "variable price ranges", somebody here might even have what you are looking for.
Others may post links for Miata's for sale around the US >> for you.

With respect,
John

underthetire

29th January 2017, 12:55

Whats too high? Over blue book? BAT prices? NAs seem to be steadily climbing in price the last couple years. Not going to get any better i think.

mrmustang

29th January 2017, 13:50

Admittedly, I'm looking for more of a cream puff car than most people have sitting around - 94-97, under 130K miles, decent paint, good motor, ac, etc.

Describe your idea of a cream puff? Your "wants and needs" in detail

- and not priced ridiculously high.

Describe what your idea of cost of a cream puff as you described above? They may or may not coincide with the current market, which is why we ask.

My question is - how would you go about finding what seems to be a needle in a haystack?

Perseverance, yes, really

Good markets to look in?

You are here, although local miata clubs, craigslist, cars.com, and a host of other similar might not be a bad place to search as well.

Quick ways to identify a good deal?

Find a seller who is straight forward and honest with what they have, ask about paint work, ask about maintenance, ask for more pictures if you are serious about a specific car. Some sellers know what they have, some only know it is a Mazda Miata and the top goes down. If you find a seller who is a bit cagey with their answers, or you feel the hair stand up on the back of your neck, simply walk away.

The really good deals last minutes to a few hours, so be ready to jump quickly, but at the same time, be cautious as there are scammers out there looking for people just like you!

Tips for buying from far away cities?

If you are comfortable with the seller, and the pictures look good, and you have a serious interest, either get in touch with a local club (or member here), and see if they are close enough to drop in and make a hands on inspection. Or, there are 3rd party companies out there which you can hire to do what is known as a "PPI" (pre-purchase inspection).....Some sellers are willing to make things like this happen, others for various reasons (either hiding things, or work related issues with getting the car to a dealer during business hours, travel, or a lack of insurance/registration) cannot...It's up to you as the potential buyer to feel comfortable forking over your hard earned money.

Hope you find this post helpful.

Sincerely,

Bill S

Sharpie

29th January 2017, 14:26

www.funcarsforsale.com

He doesn't seem to have much now, but he finds nice cars. Give Bob a call.

Coaster

29th January 2017, 15:10

...Admittedly, I'm looking for more of a cream puff car than most people have sitting around - 94-97, under 130K miles, decent paint, good motor, ac, etc. - and not priced ridiculously high...
What price range do you expect? In my area you would expect to pay 4500+. And it will sell fast. Anything cheaper is a DEAL and will last hours if not minutes.

Set up an alert in CL in areas you are willing to drive to, ideally to your phone. Respond immediately to promising deals. Go out of your way to get to the car to check it out, the nice ones don't wait for you. Have some deposit cash on you.

This said check any car thoroughly, visual inspection, owner records, title.

Bob_MX5

29th January 2017, 15:54

First off, searched and read as many threads as I could, but apologies if this information already exists somewhere...

Long story short, I've been looking for a good, clean NA for almost 6 months now, and I'm starting to wonder if I'm either not trying hard enough or going about it the wrong way.

Admittedly, I'm looking for more of a cream puff car than most people have sitting around - 94-97, under 130K miles, decent paint, good motor, ac, etc. - and not priced ridiculously high.

Appreciate any info you guys have! This is getting frustrating, but I'm trying to maintain patience and stay the course.

What you are looking for is not cheap and is not getting cheaper, rather, getting more expensive.

One option is to make sure others on the forum know you want a specific NA. That's how I found my SBY...thru CHARLES2002 who knew a guy with one that had recently decided he was going to put it up for sale. I then bought it before it was "for sale".

Another option is to decide which one you want, find one like it here, and then put out feelers to the owner(s) that you are interested in their car should they be interested in selling. You might pay at the high end of the spectrum but you will also learn more about its condition/history through the owners past forum posts or build threads about their car.

For example, if you wanted a white or yellow NA 1.6, you could learn all about MC70's Chaste White or my Sunburst Yellow through our build threads. Neither are advertised for sale but you never know when they might become available.

MXander-5

29th January 2017, 16:50

I guess i lucked out before the crazziness began .....Found my 90 Silverstone on Autotrader in NJ so not that far from my area ...Plus the guy that was selling it to me was a "Miata Enthusiast" who educated me about the car and was very honest about all the upkeep on the car ...:thumbs:...Maybe you will get Lucky in your search ....

mrmustang

29th January 2017, 16:51

I see what you did there

Almost as subtle, you would have to click HERE (https://forum.miata.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=259938&d=1485691704) :D

theredcapediver

29th January 2017, 18:14

Wow, thanks for all the great responses! For those interested:

Regarding condition - I guess cream puff is too strong. I really mean something that doesn't require a lot of work to be a clean Miata. A lot of the "deals" around here tend to have issues with ac (Texas is hot), airbags, smashed quarter/finish panels, or clear coat failure, and besides the fact that they could be symptoms of bigger issues, they also mean I'd have to spend money I don't want to spend to make the car "normal" again. Things that will be addressed anyway like brakes, clutch, shocks etc. don't bother me since I'll be lightly modding it anyway, but other major issues are what I'm trying to avoid.

Price wise - what I'd consider too high is anything above $4,500/$5,500 with hardtop. I think that technically falls in the "good deal" category, but based on other prices in Texas that seems like a fairly reasonable goal. That said, it's hard to say that's my goal because for <$2,000 I would put up with more issues, and for a member's car I would pay closer to $6,000 to keep it in the family, so to speak.

Writing this, I've realized my expectations are more vague than I thought, and I love the idea of learning from other members' builds while also watching them to see if they ever sell.

Coaster

29th January 2017, 19:15

One thing to bear in mind, the 4500 minimum I mentioned is for a mechanically baselined cosmetically clean car. Usually when you spend less you will need to do some remedial work. Which is good if you like to DIY. Mechanical is always easier than cosmetics. But if you can't find a suitable car in your price range the market is telling you something. In the 4+ years since I bough my first prices have gone up. But IMO it's still a good deal if you can get a great car for 5k.

twisties

29th January 2017, 19:32

Another big question is are you willing to travel to get the right one? How far?

David W.

30th January 2017, 00:38

IMO,forget the miles.Get one that po has taken care of.Bought mine with 200k,po replaced snc engine at 100k with NEW engine from Mazda.Continualy replaced whatever parts as needed,did general maint.etc.Not a cream puff,but nat far from it and no rust.

theredcapediver

30th January 2017, 10:32

Another big question is are you willing to travel to get the right one? How far?

tom4416

30th January 2017, 11:56

NA's have fallen into one of three categories with the following associated pricing:

Beaters - $2000-$3000. They will need a lot of baselining and ongoing work.

Daily Drivers - $4000-$6000. Nothing special, a bit above or below 100K miles, general maintenance current, things like TB/WP/shocks probably not done so figure $1500 to baseline them and have a very reliable car for another 100K.

Collectors - $8000-$20,000. Very low mileage, sometimes under 5K. Basically 9/10 condition requiring little to no work. The run of the mill 20K mile red will be the $8,000 car, the <5K mile 93LE with all the documentation, keychain, etc. will be $20K.

The steals in the collector category are gone. Your best hope is to find one in the daily category where the seller doesn't track the market and is willing to let it go for $2500. Those are becoming fewer and further between to the point of almost being non-existent.

There is a false sense of steals and deals sometimes because someone will pipe in with "just got an NA with only 150K miles for $1,000 and it runs like a dream". However, if you start searching on the users name, you suddenly find an awful lot of threads in other parts of the forum describing all the bad things the car is doing and looking for answers.

Occasionally there will be the widow selling her husbands beloved NA with 50K miles on it for whatever the book tells her it's worth. They last about five minutes if advertised, they are really a "I knew someone who knew someone" and the car was purchased before it was ever listed. This is why it's good to get the word out through Miata clubs, fellow Miata owners and car enthusiast in general so if they spot this kind of deal, and don't want it for themselves, they can quickly alert you to its availability.

Coaster

30th January 2017, 13:46

^^^Agreed. Excellent summary of what I see here.

ashtray

30th January 2017, 15:38

The deals get scooped up fast - sometimes in a matter of hours. $6k for what you are looking for (including hardtop, ~100k miles, needs nothing) might be possible, but could take time and patience - as well as searching twice daily. (again, a car might come up for sale in your back yard that meets your criteria, and sell the same day)

If you don't want to wait, consider increasing your price range. In the $8-9k range, you'll have better examples to choose from and lower mileage. And those tend to sit longer on the market so easier to find and possibly get a better deal on.

That said, I was in the market last year and found the car I wanted. Price was at the top of the range - especially if you listen to some people around here - but it had everything I wanted and needed nothing. I bought it last Summer and have only had to put gas in it! I will take it for an oil change soon though... ;)

I might have overpaid - or maybe not. If I found one cheaper, it might have needed $1k of work (which isnt much). Some cars will take $3-4k to get them how you want it.

Your problem of not finding a car can be solved by throwing money at it. Or you can sit and wait.

twisties

30th January 2017, 16:17

Here's a decent looking 97M. Not everyone's favorite color but with sub 70k and maintenance done $6k sounds very reasonable.

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/689885923/overview?aff=share_text

Bob_MX5

30th January 2017, 17:01

Here's a decent looking 97M. Not everyone's favorite color but with sub 70k and maintenance done $6k sounds very reasonable.

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/689885923/overview?aff=share_text

A good buy if standard inspection pans out. Doubt it will last long.

theredcapediver

30th January 2017, 18:46

Excellent point. A big part of what has been driving me to be more patient and wait for a "golden opportunity" is seeing these types of posts, which is great because it's kept me from impulse buys but on the other hand has made me a bit gun shy.

You and ashtray both have good points about the price/patience relationship.

theredcapediver

30th January 2017, 18:48

Here's a decent looking 97M. Not everyone's favorite color but with sub 70k and maintenance done $6k sounds very reasonable.

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/689885923/overview?aff=share_text

Thanks for the find! Definitely going to investigate further because while it's no BRG, I still love green.

theredcapediver

30th January 2017, 18:55

Also, this just popped up locally - you guys have any thoughts besides need to see engine bay and interior?

https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/5982223101.html

Luckily it's close enough that it wouldn't be much of an investment to see it in person.

Byrdmen

30th January 2017, 19:08

Good advice in this thread. Refine the craigslist search: year range, newest first, color or package if you want. I did this for 94-97 arranged newest first, saved Houston, Austin, and Dallas and checked them every couple of days.

Last week I did a double take on a 97m 20 miles from the house WITH 112k for $1,500..... 11 minutes old. I emailed that I wanted to see it that evening, stopped to pick up 15 hundreds on the way. Quick drive and it was mine, seller said his email was blowing up. I drove it home that night in a storm.

Clear coat is peeling, leather is worn (I've seen a lot worse), but not modded and just needs some catch up mtx.

Gotta be patient, be ready, and move FAST.

mrmustang

30th January 2017, 19:19

Also, this just popped up locally - you guys have any thoughts besides need to see engine bay and interior?

https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/5982223101.html

Luckily it's close enough that it wouldn't be much of an investment to see it in person.

Go now, if clean, buy it before the next person shows up tonight and gets it out from under you

Bill S

David W.

30th January 2017, 23:52

Go now, if clean, buy it before the next person shows up tonight and gets it out from under you

Bill S

Fair price so buy it.

mrmustang

31st January 2017, 00:15

Fair price so buy it.

When living in the NE I always went south for clean, low mileage, rust free convertibles. Now that I live in the south, I realize just how rare they are these days because there are more days to drive these cars here, which drives up the mileage. To find a clean, well maintained, low mileage car in the south these days is becoming harder and harder to do as they get snatched up and moved to the north........OP posted about what appears to be such a car (lots of questions to ask the seller first), and as such, needs to move a little quicker to get a good deal while it is still available

Bill S

theredcapediver

31st January 2017, 00:40

OP posted about what appears to be such a car (lots of questions to ask the seller first), and as such, needs to move a little quicker to get a good deal while it is still available

Bill S

Thanks for the honesty - I moved on this as soon as I posted the review question here. Seller and I are texting and trying to setup a meet time! That said, not putting all my eggs in this basket, so I'm also looking into the 97M.

Trying to find a balance between fast reaction and fighting impulse is tough, haha.

ashtray

31st January 2017, 01:12

Good luck. At some point you have to jump in, but you want to make sure the car is as described and not some rebuilt pile. Its a balancing act of acting quick but also staying collected and not emotionally attached (until you actually buy it). Be ready to analyze the car and any documentation closely to make an informed decision.

Also check the normal stuff like any rust, vin numbers on the front fenders, signs of any accident damage (not always reported to Carfax).

These cars ride a bit harsh - so that's normal. But they should shift smoothly, and not overheat. Engine should run through the rpms to redline without stumble. Car should track straight. Check the wheel gap at each wheel with the car on level ground. A difference in wheel gap from one side to the other could mean an accident/damage. (again, check on level ground)

Good luck!

theredcapediver

1st February 2017, 11:36

Update: sadly the seller stopped texting at one point, so I'm sure someone promised a sale before I did...

That said, I'm talking to this seller at the moment, and he's being very accommodating with what looks like clean pics of the engine bay, wheels, trunk, and interior!

https://neworleans.craigslist.org/cto/5982955957.html

Edit: looks like he added the pics I requested to the ad. Hopefully that doesn't mean others jump on it before I can, haha.

Louros

1st February 2017, 12:47

Update: sadly the seller stopped texting at one point, so I'm sure someone promised a sale before I did...

That said, I'm talking to this seller at the moment, and he's being very accommodating with what looks like clean pics of the engine bay, wheels, trunk, and interior!

https://neworleans.craigslist.org/cto/5982955957.html

Edit: looks like he added the pics I requested to the ad. Hopefully that doesn't mean others jump on it before I can, haha.
If I was asking that much for a car with almost 100k on it and someone showed interest, I'd be very accommodating too. ;)

Gene-M

1st February 2017, 13:20

If I was asking that much for a car with almost 100k on it and someone showed interest, I'd be very accommodating too. ;)

You can sneer all you want, but I think that this car is priced very reasonably for a special edition with a hardtop, and one that has had a lot of the baseline maintenance done for him already.

I agree with Tom on all the points that he took the time to write out for the OP. But I take exception to one thing he said, and that was that baselining a Miata would cost about 1500. These days $2500 would seem a lot more accurate. For me, two recent OTM purchases easily exceeded that. With this car, much of that has been done already.

The '94 M consistently polls among the top favorite Miatas of all time, and that frequently factors into what people are asking for them, and what others are willing to pay.

Coaster

1st February 2017, 13:59

If the 94M is as nice as it seems - totally baselined, it is worth the price. It appears to have a good owner - a real plus.

theredcapediver

2nd February 2017, 15:04

If the 94M is as nice as it seems - totally baselined, it is worth the price. It appears to have a good owner - a real plus.

The owner is definitely a plus because based on our conversations it doesn't sound like there will be any hidden issues :)

ashtray

4th February 2017, 15:04

In CA, that car wouldn't last more than a week on CL at that price. (94M)

If it needs nothing, that's a steal - if you want a 94M. (it's "less special" of an M because Mazda then used that color on Miatas from '95-'97, but its still a loaded down M - and appears to be in great shape, with a hardtop. Fly in, drive it home! :D

underthetire

4th February 2017, 16:00

Update: sadly the seller stopped texting at one point,

This is the problem right there. I would stop too. If someone was serious, a phone call would be in order.

Hawker

4th February 2017, 18:38

Agree with others here, if that 94M is as clean as it seems then $6500 with HT is more than fair. Only thing that bothers me about the ad is his use of "paint job". Has the car been repainted? Have you seen this color in person? It's not exactly how it looks in the ad.

BZman

5th February 2017, 08:44

First off, searched and read as many threads as I could, but apologies if this information already exists somewhere...

Long story short, I've been looking for a good, clean NA for almost 6 months now, and I'm starting to wonder if I'm either not trying hard enough or going about it the wrong way.

Admittedly, I'm looking for more of a cream puff car than most people have sitting around - 94-97, under 130K miles, decent paint, good motor, ac, etc. - and not priced ridiculously high.

Appreciate any info you guys have! This is getting frustrating, but I'm trying to maintain patience and stay the course.

I am searching for an NA also. For what it's worth here's what I did:
Went to Craigslist > Cars + Trucks > Owner Only. Then I selected "Search Titles Only", "Posted Today" and ALL "Include Nearby Areas". Then I bookmarked it to the Google. Each morning I check that bookmark for the new posts, one click and I am right there. Other than that check: Autotrader.com, Cars.com and don't forget the "For Sale or Trade" forum here. I get the feeling if you are looking for a real find, the local newspaper classified ads are the way to go. At the risk of sounding crude, I don't think the recent widow looking to sell her husbands pride and joy is going to use Craigslist.

theredcapediver

5th February 2017, 11:33

This is the problem right there. I would stop too. If someone was serious, a phone call would be in order.

Normally I'd agree with you, but if the seller specifically asks for text responses that's what I'm going to do. The guy had a complicated work schedule, so was not open to a phone conversation.

theredcapediver

5th February 2017, 11:35

Thanks for the info and great point about the paper. I can't believe I didn't think of that.

FWIW - if you instead setup craigslist alerts, it will ONLY notify you when there's a change on your alert. Two key benefits being you don't have to check everyday, and you get the alert within one hour of the post going live, giving you the speed advantage :D

The Driver

5th February 2017, 19:36

Definitely - I'm checking CL ads as far as Jacksonville, FL, which is a solid 15 hours. Ideally I would find one within a one-day round-trip driving distance, so I don't have to add the cost of a flight to the total cost though.
A trip to JAX or even Orlando (which would have a lot more Miatas, been that is FL's largest metro area, larger than Miami!) from Dallas is CHEAP. Buy a round trip tix, in case the car is less than what you want to buy. I learned that from poster tom4416!
NA's have fallen into one of three categories with the following associated pricing:

Beaters - $2000-$3000. They will need a lot of baselining and ongoing work.

BZman

6th February 2017, 07:16

Great tip, thanks!

SpeedDemon0712

6th February 2017, 17:12

OP, you and I seem to be in the exact same position in the exact same area haha. I'm looking for a clean NA (90-97) that was just well taken care of. 150k miles or less (prefer closer to 100k), clean title, clean paint (no major dents or fading), and a manual transmission. In the 2-3 months I've been looking, only a few have been posted that were even worth looking at. They're gone before I can see them though. Heck, one sold within an hour of being posted! It's the middle of the day and I'm at work, I can't take off to go buy a car.

I did post a wanted ad though and got quite a few responses. Right now I'm talking to a guy with a 94' M Edition with 135k miles. Super clean exterior, he's working on replacing most of the interior pieces. He's asking $4k but the car isn't ready yet. Another guy text me last night (lives literally 5 min from me) with a red 96' and tan top. 118k miles, recent timing belt and water pump done. Asking $4k. I'm going to go look at it tonight and just pray the paint isn't faded.

theredcapediver

6th February 2017, 21:13

HAH! I saw your wanted ad and thought it may be worth putting up my own, but I decided it would have been rude! Definitely sounds like we're after the exact same thing. If you happen to pick one up and then find leads it'd be awesome if you would shoot them my way. I'll do the same as I find more cars around the state.

Byrdmen

7th February 2017, 06:25

..... They're gone before I can see them though. Heck, one sold within an hour of being posted! It's the middle of the day and I'm at work, I can't take off to go buy a car.

Curious which one was gone in an hour?

SpeedDemon0712

7th February 2017, 10:22

For sure man! I looked at that red 96' last night. Paint was no bueno, and the whole undercarriage was covered in engine oil. After the test drive, it reaked of burning oil. Off to the next one!

Curious which one was gone in an hour?

Oh man, it was like 6-8 weeks ago I think. If I remember correctly, it was a 94-96 M Edition, 2 owner, garage kept, under 100k miles. Paint looked perfect, brand new leather seats, he was only asking $3700 - $4300. I don't remember exactly, but when I contacted the seller, they said it was sold. It was posted the day I contacted the seller.

NoLid

7th February 2017, 15:51

From all the threads in here, there seems that there's about 3-4 of you guys looking for the same thing. Good luck to all of you and hope you guys find a good one. Spring is near [emoji106]

theredcapediver

7th February 2017, 18:57

From all the threads in here, there seems that there's about 3-4 of you guys looking for the same thing. Good luck to all of you and hope you guys find a good one. Spring is near [emoji106]

Luckily I have my NC to hold me over, haha... at this point I'm considering retrofitting pop-up headlights and calling it a day:rofl:

CET

7th February 2017, 21:06

I looked for months last year for NA/NB and had the same issues. I used CL over several cities in south and multiple internet sites. All of the decent ones went really quickly. I happened upon a local CL listing that was high for the condition but contacted immediately. Owner was open to negotiating after the test drive. Cash in hand sealed the deal for my 97M. It needs paint but no rust, new top, new tires & lots of prior maintenance records. I paid $3400, decent price, maybe a little high but I am happy with it. Moral is be quick to jump on any leads & have cash in hand when checking it out.

Byrdmen

8th February 2017, 05:31

Search for the Houston Miata club group on Facebook. Simeon whist posted what you're looking for

Byrdmen

8th February 2017, 09:52

Translation: some one posted what you are looking for.

Guy in Italy, Texas selling a 94, looking at the pics it does have left rear fender body damage, maybe a good deal with a little body work.

SpeedDemon0712

8th February 2017, 10:11

Luckily I have my NC to hold me over, haha... at this point I'm considering retrofitting pop-up headlights and calling it a day:rofl:

At least you have something to hold you over. I have an F150! A far cry from a Miata haha.

theredcapediver

8th February 2017, 11:29

Translation: some one posted what you are looking for.

Guy in Italy, Texas selling a 94, looking at the pics it does have left rear fender body damage, maybe a good deal with a little body work.

Thanks for the lead.

There's also this one that popped up on CL - ad seems sketchy, but investigating further to see if it's a deal.

https://houston.craigslist.org/cto/5993678108.html

SpeedDemon0712

8th February 2017, 13:00

Thanks for the lead.

There's also this one that popped up on CL - ad seems sketchy, but investigating further to see if it's a deal.

https://houston.craigslist.org/cto/5993678108.html

I ran the carfax for you...

theredcapediver

8th February 2017, 15:05

I ran the carfax for you...

BOOM, there it is. Knew it was fishy.

ashtray

9th February 2017, 01:39

I ran the carfax for you...

He didn't ask, but technically you're not supposed to be doing that. Now if you ran it for yourself and are just sharing what you found out, that's more a grey area.

cajun312

9th February 2017, 08:54

BOOM, there it is. Knew it was fishy.

Weren't you in contact with this owner? Looks to be in great shape.

https://neworleans.craigslist.org/cto/5982955957.html

SpeedDemon0712

9th February 2017, 10:50

He didn't ask, but technically you're not supposed to be doing that. Now if you ran it for yourself and are just sharing what you found out, that's more a grey area.

Oops, sorry! Won't happen again.

SpeedDemon0712

9th February 2017, 11:20

Make sure you run the carfax on ALL vehicles before you buy one! I just found a decent looking 91' in Decatur with 115k miles for $2400. He said it was a barn find from the previous owner in 2010, replaced a ton of stuff to get it road worthy, then sold it to the guy who owns it now. I ran the carfax and it had 208k miles in 2004, then the next reported mileage was 2010 with 68k miles. Looks like that owner replaced the cluster after the barn find while he was getting it road worthy. STOP ROLLING BACK THE ODOMETER OR SWAPPING THE CLUSTERS TO LOWER THE MILEAGE!!! It screws a lot of innocent people.

My buddy went to trade in his early 90's Chevy on a newer truck and when the dealership ran the carfax, they found out the odometer was rolled back. It had over 300k miles when the cluster read like 180k, completely screwed my friend. Man that makes me angry.

theredcapediver

9th February 2017, 11:35

Weren't you in contact with this owner? Looks to be in great shape.

https://neworleans.craigslist.org/cto/5982955957.html

Sure am! He's out of town until the 13th, and then we're going to work out a time for me to make a looong road trip. That is, unless he sells it locally before I get the chance to drive out.

cajun312

9th February 2017, 11:53

Sure am! He's out of town until the 13th, and then we're going to work out a time for me to make a looong road trip. That is, unless he sells it locally before I get the chance to drive out.

Don't forget, it's boiled crawfish time of the year. Enjoy the trip.

NoLid

9th February 2017, 12:05

That exact thing happened to a friend that bought a '95 Miata exactly like mine and we ran the car fax, but the miles were only listed twice since purchase and the 2nd owner had it for 9 yrs and said he didn't drive it much, hence the "low mileage ". Couple years afterwards my buddy found a few oil change receipts (3) that showed a mileage discrepancy of over 70k miles! We ended up getting another speedo closer to what we guessed (averaged months/miles/dates)
And his 87k Miata became 174k. He wanted to show what was close so when he sold it, he wouldn't get any retribution arising from it. He talked to lawyers here, but 10yrs and older cars are exempt from mileage being stated on the title when selling. We only had his word so that was that. The funny thing was that the car looked like it had 50k and impeccable so we never questioned his word on mileage. Luckily the internet makes it a little harder to get away doing that since most things are recorded and accessible through vin checks nowadays, and most vehicles now record mileage in the BCM. I now carry my scanner and plug into the OBD to check all modules for vin, mileage, and code history. It's too easy on the NA and NB? To just swap out Speedo clusters because the modules do not retain mileage info.
The moral to this long story? Do your homework and check vin thru Google ,carfax, owners manual service section where you're SUPPOSED to write down services done, and even the closest dealer to that car (most likely where it was taken if it ever was) for mileage verification. Check brake -clutch pedal rubber for wear and carpet too. In a perfect world we wouldn't have to worry about this stuff............... in a perfect world.

Lobster70

9th February 2017, 14:18

I came here and read all the way to the end hoping to see that the 94M was purchased by the OP. Looking forward to news after the 13th! I think it looks like a good one for a fair price. If you've been looking very long you start to get a feel for sellers. Some just don't feel right and others do. I have paid a premium on a couple occasions just because the seller didn't creep me out.

On the topic of mileage records, doing the homework is absolutely worth it. If you find one anomaly though, it might not be a smoking gun. My 91 Toyota Pickup has low miles for its age (92k) and the last time I took it to the tire shop they recorded it as 191k. They corrected it but hopefully that doesn't get into the record somewhere. Not that I care, I'm planning to keep that old friend until either I or it can no longer drive.

theredcapediver

9th February 2017, 15:51

Don't forget, it's boiled crawfish time of the year. Enjoy the trip.

Assuming you know the area pretty well - would it be worth staying in Baton Rouge for a night, or would you recommend going down to New Orleans?

cajun312

9th February 2017, 16:53

Assuming you know the area pretty well - would it be worth staying in Baton Rouge for a night, or would you recommend going down to New Orleans?

According to Craiglist the car is in Covington which is on the north shore of Lake Ponchartrain, probably 50 or 60 miles to NOLA.
Rooms might be hard to get in Baton Rouge as many people are not back in their homes since the flooding last August.
I would much rather spend the night in Covington or Mandeville, low crime and plenty of good places to eat. NOLA has good places to eat but the crime is off the charts.
If you plan on traveling mostly interstates, follow I-49 south to Opelousas, then east on Hwy 190 which is four lane all the way to Baton Rouge. I-10 has a terrible backup almost every day on the east side of the Mississippi River bridge. You can cross on 190 which is a couple of miles north of I-10 and will take you to I-12 to Covington. I wouldn't stop anywhere on 190 going through Baton Rouge, sketchy neighborhoods.

If you want a scenic route you can get on LA 1 south of Alexandria to New Roads where there is a new bridge over the Mississippi River, then take the back roads to Covington, the seller can probably tell you the best route for that area, I don't get there very often. As far as I know LA-10 is a fun road but I don't know the best roads south to Covington.

The Driver

9th February 2017, 21:32

Assuming you know the area pretty well - would it be worth staying in Baton Rouge for a night, or would you recommend going down to New Orleans?

I lived in Uptown New Orleans for almost 9 months, three blocks off Tulane U. Yes, NOLA has high crime, like HIGH. But, it's also a great tourist destination. If you are gonna be in the area, might as well stay there.

Most hotels in NOLA, charge for covered parking, so your car will be off of the streets. Also, since hotels get thrashed during Mardi Gras, the area hotels should be both cheaper and CLEAN!

ashtray

9th February 2017, 22:14

As long as you're not parking a convertible or something with a removable hardtop, your car should be ok... oh wait. :p

Yeah - use high caution in high crime areas. Carry a second wallet with $20 in it and some fake credit cards you get in the mail. Nothing with your name on it. Better yet, use the spare wallet when out so if someone sees it and knows which pocket it is in, they will be targeting your fake / spare wallet. I'm not too ashamed to carry my credit cards and drivers license in a pouch hung around my neck in bad areas! (just don't show people...) ;)

theredcapediver

10th February 2017, 10:32

...or something with a removable hardtop...

After reading so many posts from people who have had theirs stolen, I'm starting to think having a hardtop is a risky move. People suck sometimes...

cajun312

10th February 2017, 11:32

As long as you're not parking a convertible or something with a removable hardtop, your car should be ok... oh wait. :p

Having only $20 in the wallet would be an insult to the thug.

huesmann

10th February 2017, 12:15

After reading so many posts from people who have had theirs stolen, I'm starting to think having a hardtop is a risky move. People suck sometimes...
Toplocs cost less than a new top...

ashtray

12th February 2017, 22:48

After reading so many posts from people who have had theirs stolen, I'm starting to think having a hardtop is a risky move. People suck sometimes...

I invested in a $200 set of TopLocs. Helps ease my mind when I park my car at the mall, movies, etc.

theredcapediver

13th February 2017, 11:15

TopLocs definitely seem in order, though I still can't believe that people would put in the effort to steal a bulky hard top. Guess I just don't get the thief mindset, haha...

cajun312

13th February 2017, 11:56

TopLocs definitely seem in order, though I still can't believe that people would put in the effort to steal a bulky hard top. Guess I just don't get the thief mindset, haha...

You could also use the spec racer type bolt on plates and use different types of security screws/bolts.

Coaster

13th February 2017, 14:26

I invested in a $200 set of TopLocs. Helps ease my mind when I park my car at the mall, movies, etc.

That $200 could pay for over 10 years worth of zero deductible comprehensive, which covers the whole car. Eases my mind perfectly anywhere.

huesmann

14th February 2017, 10:45

How much is the hassle of finding the right top worth?

theredcapediver

14th February 2017, 11:35

Well, owner said a local couple came buy and want to buy, so looks like it's on to the next one! Not saying I got my hopes up this time, but starting to think I have unrealistic expectations, haha.

SpeedDemon0712

14th February 2017, 11:54

Well, owner said a local couple came buy and want to buy, so looks like it's on to the next one! Not saying I got my hopes up this time, but starting to think I have unrealistic expectations, haha.

Keep looking brother, something will eventually turn up. That's how I ended up with mine! :thumbs:

casey_2005

14th February 2017, 14:11

That $200 could pay for over 10 years worth of zero deductible comprehensive, which covers the whole car. Eases my mind perfectly anywhere.

You get zero deductible comprehensive for $0.60 a month? We need details! Comprehensive is nice though, I wouldn't say it perfectly eases my mind but it does help a lot.

CET

14th February 2017, 15:33

Don't give up the chase. There is one out there for you. Just might take longer than expected.

Coaster

14th February 2017, 17:12

You get zero deductible comprehensive for $0.60 a month? We need details! Comprehensive is nice though, I wouldn't say it perfectly eases my mind but it does help a lot.

$12.24 per year - State Farm. No deductible. I'm sure it is low because of where I live. I could leave the keys in it - seriously.

casey_2005

14th February 2017, 17:18

Nice. And hahaha, my math was a bit off!